Family Supper: This is Great! What??

Every year for my vegetarian anniversary, I have tried to go somewhere nice--and willing to cook vegetarian--to celebrate. This 18th year, with the tepid review of a friend still in our ears, we went to Family Supper. Not that I am hip enough ever to have gone while it was still invite only. But as a vegetarian, I couldn't see how it would work out going to a place where they only serve 1 menu to everyone. But anyone can go now, and to our surprise, the Ripe web site says to advise them of any special dietary requirements when you make your reservation. I assume, but did not ask, that this means even vegan. Only the first course was vegan the night we went. But just as Willamette Week's review, describes, you sit at communal tables and partake from shared serving dishes. The chef started with a beet and grilled endive salad that marked only the second time I've liked beets. The main course was pork, if I recall correctly, with sides of winter squash puree with browned butter, and lacinato kale gratin. The chef only had to substitute our main course to provide us with a vegetarian meal. Instead of the pork whatever others had, we had a green polenta topped with chanterelles--I'm forgetting a few details already. Nevertheless, it went well with the existing side dishes and we cleaned our plates, leaving no room for dessert.

Details that local critics seem to glide by caught our attention almost as much as the food. That communal table is surrounded by the industrial machines of the kitchen. Behind my wife was the dishwasher, and behind me to my left was the kitchen. Being in such a room, it was pretty loud. This was not a place for quiet conversation. Rather, making any conversation meant that we would both lean forward and yet still speak in fairly loud voices. Yes, dessert and coffee were available, but my years and spain often leave me wanting a carajillo --an espresso shot with liquor of your choice in it (--after a great, filling meal. Ripe does not have espresso or a full liquor license. Sure, one can chalk these things up to the snobbery of the spoiled, but when we had 4 friends over last night, half the group ended the night with carajillos. That for me *is* part of a family supper.

I give Family Supper high marks for food and breaking the rules about how a restaurant works. Perhaps in the future they will hang some textiles on the walls and ceiling to cut the noise, and we will have reason to return.