Family Supper: This is Great! What??

Every year for my vegetarian anniversary, I have tried to go somewhere nice--and willing to cook vegetarian--to celebrate. This 18th year, with the tepid review of a friend still in our ears, we went to Family Supper. Not that I am hip enough ever to have gone while it was still invite only. But as a vegetarian, I couldn't see how it would work out going to a place where they only serve 1 menu to everyone. But anyone can go now, and to our surprise, the Ripe web site says to advise them of any special dietary requirements when you make your reservation. I assume, but did not ask, that this means even vegan. Only the first course was vegan the night we went. But just as Willamette Week's review, describes, you sit at communal tables and partake from shared serving dishes. The chef started with a beet and grilled endive salad that marked only the second time I've liked beets. The main course was pork, if I recall correctly, with sides of winter squash puree with browned butter, and lacinato kale gratin. The chef only had to substitute our main course to provide us with a vegetarian meal. Instead of the pork whatever others had, we had a green polenta topped with chanterelles--I'm forgetting a few details already. Nevertheless, it went well with the existing side dishes and we cleaned our plates, leaving no room for dessert.

Details that local critics seem to glide by caught our attention almost as much as the food. That communal table is surrounded by the industrial machines of the kitchen. Behind my wife was the dishwasher, and behind me to my left was the kitchen. Being in such a room, it was pretty loud. This was not a place for quiet conversation. Rather, making any conversation meant that we would both lean forward and yet still speak in fairly loud voices. Yes, dessert and coffee were available, but my years and spain often leave me wanting a carajillo --an espresso shot with liquor of your choice in it (--after a great, filling meal. Ripe does not have espresso or a full liquor license. Sure, one can chalk these things up to the snobbery of the spoiled, but when we had 4 friends over last night, half the group ended the night with carajillos. That for me *is* part of a family supper.

I give Family Supper high marks for food and breaking the rules about how a restaurant works. Perhaps in the future they will hang some textiles on the walls and ceiling to cut the noise, and we will have reason to return.

Low water mark: Hurley's

Okay, now this criticism should be taken as one opinion of many, but...

My wife and I eat out often, as do most of our friends. We go to nice places when our budget affords, and like many in Portland, more of our budget goes toward food and entertainment than does for couples in other cities. But as a vegetarian, I realize that not every restaurant staff holds its collective breath just hoping I might swing by. When making reservations somewhere new, we always ask whether the restaurant offers vegetarian entrees, or would be willing to make them for our visit. Some places--very very nice places--decline, and I respect them more for having the wisdom to tell me up front than disappoint me when I arrive. Mille Fleurs in San Diego stands in my mind as an excellent example, and I respect them for it, even if I cannot enjoy what surely would be excellent food. Which brings us to Hurley's. We usually wait a few months after a new restaurant opens--a few months, even, after the reviews appear--to let the crowds and buzz die down. We find this to be a better way to let the chef and servers shine. We did this with Hurley's, and we were assured during two separate phone calls that the chef would be happy to accomodate vegetarians.

Well.

First, the restaurant was unable to seat us for a full half hour after our reservation time, which does not suggest deep understanding of their clientele. But the capper came another half hour later when we finally ordered, and the server informed us that no, the chef would in no way be able to prepare items not on the menu. When I pointed out that I had called ahead to ask this precise question, the server responded that perhaps some sauteed vegetables would be possible as a main course. At this point I almost lost it, but managed to stay calm enough to suggest that $40 for a large order of a side dish was hardly the stuff of dreams. The server assured me that this would not be garden variety (ha!) sauteed vegetables, but wonderful. Ha. While cooked as well as sauteed vegetables could be, sauteed vegetables they were, and over $30 for the privilege. We will never return.